Prepare the corn: If using fresh corn, hold each cob upright in a large plate and grate the kernels off using a box grater (use medium holes). Grate only the tender kernels, not the hard cob center. You will get a juicy grated corn mash. Alternatively, you can slice off the kernels with a knife and pulse them in a blender without water to get a coarse paste. (Do not grind too fine; a bit of texture is ideal.)
Heat the fat and temper: In a deep pan or kadhai, heat the ghee (or oil) on medium flame. Add the mustard seeds; when they begin to splutter, add the cumin seeds and let them crackle. Next, reduce heat to low and add a pinch of asafoetida. Immediately toss in the chopped green chilies and grated ginger. Sauté for a minute until the raw aroma of ginger fades. Stir in the turmeric powder (and a pinch of red chili powder for extra heat, if desired) and cook for a few seconds, being careful not to burn the spices.
Add and sauté corn: Tip in the grated corn (along with any “corn milk” juice from it) into the pan. Mix well so the spiced tempering coats all the corn. Sauté the corn mixture on low to medium heat for about 5–8 minutes, stirring frequently. The corn will begin to cook and its color may brighten; this step helps develop flavor.
Cook with milk: Pour in the ½ cup of milk and stir. The milk adds creaminess and helps cook the corn into a porridge-like consistency. If your corn was very dry or starchy, you can add a splash of extra milk or water as needed to cover the corn. Add the sugar now (if using, see Tips below about when to add sugar). Season with salt to taste and mix well.
Simmer until done: Cover the pan with a lid and let the Bhutte ka Kees simmer on low heat for about 8–10 minutes. Every few minutes, stir the mixture to prevent sticking at the bottom. Cook until the corn is soft and the mixture has thickened. You’re aiming for a texture similar to a soft upma or thick porridge – it should not be runny, but there should be some moisture (it will thicken further upon cooling). If it looks too dry, you can add a few more spoonfuls of hot milk or water and mix in. Once the corn is fully cooked and the consistency is to your liking, turn off the heat.
Finish with lemon and serve: Finally, stir in the lemon juice (½ to 1 tablespoon, or to taste) and give a good mix. Lemon brightens up the flavors at the end. Ladle the hot Bhutte ka Kees into serving bowls. Garnish generously with the fresh grated coconut and chopped cilantro. If you have Indori jeeravan masala, sprinkle a pinch on top for an authentic touch. Serve immediately, with extra lemon wedges on the side for squeezing. Enjoy this snack hot for the best taste and texture – Bhutte ka Kees is meant to be savored warm, when its sweet and spicy flavors are most vibrant.