Memories of Kharwas
I remember the first time I tasted kharwas. I was seven, spending summer at my grandmother’s farm in Maharashtra. One misty dawn, Aaji (grandma) gently woke me with excitement — the neighbor’s cow had calved, and that meant one thing: kharwas for everyone. In our village, whenever a calf was born, the excess colostrum (first milk) was shared among neighbors so that every household could make this cherished pudding. That first milk, so thick and golden, would be mixed with regular milk, grated jaggery, and fragrant spices like cardamom (and sometimes a pinch of pepper) before being steamed until it set into a tender custard. I watched in awe as Aaji stirred the viscous kharvas doodh (colostrum) with jaggery and cardamom, poured it into a steel tiffin, and placed it in our big idli steamer. The kitchen soon filled with the sweet, earthy aroma of caramelized jaggery and spice.
When she finally opened the lid, there it was – a gently jiggling pudding with a light saffron hue. She cut it into squares and slipped a piece onto my plate. The first spoonful was pure magic: creamy and delicately sweet, with the warmth of cardamom. It melted in my mouth, yet had a subtle, cheese-like firmness that was utterly new to me. Kharwas isn’t an everyday sweet – it’s made only on special days like this, when nature provides that rare first milk. It’s not just a dessert; it’s a celebration. In Maharashtrian culture, this simple steamed pudding symbolizes gratitude for new life and the sharing of abundance. To me, that taste of kharwas will forever be intertwined with the laughter of family before sunrise and my grandmother’s loving hands. It’s more than a sweet – it’s a memory, a ritual, a bowl of tradition passed down with love.
Recipe: Kharwas (Colostrum Milk Pudding)
Servings: 4
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Ingredients (Serves 4)
2 cups colostrum milk (first-day milk after calving)
1 cup whole milk (use if colostrum is very thick; omit for later-day colostrum)
3/4 cup jaggery, grated or crumbled (traditional sweetener, or use sugar)
1/2 teaspoon cardamom powder (for aroma)
1 pinch nutmeg powder or black pepper powder (optional, traditional touch)
A few saffron strands (optional, for a richer color and aroma)
Instructions
1. Mix the Milk Base: In a large bowl, pour the colostrum milk. If using first-day colostrum (which is very thick and rich), stir in the regular whole milk to dilute it slightly. Add the grated jaggery to the milk and mix well. Keep stirring until the jaggery dissolves completely (you can also warm the milk gently to help the jaggery melt). Once dissolved, add the cardamom powder and mix. (If any impurities from the jaggery remain, you can strain the mixture through a sieve.)
2. Prepare Steaming Dish: Grease a deep stainless steel plate or bowl (or lidded container) with a few drops of ghee or oil. This will help the pudding release easily after cooking. Pour the sweetened milk mixture into the prepared dish. If using saffron, sprinkle the strands on top. Also sprinkle the tiny pinch of nutmeg or black pepper powder on the mixture for subtle flavor (optional).
3. Cover: Cover the dish with a lid or aluminum foil. This is important to prevent any water droplets from the steam from falling into the pudding and ruining its smooth texture.
4. Steam Cook: Prepare your steamer setup – you can use an idli steamer, pressure cooker (without whistle), or any large pot. Add about 2 inches of water to the steamer and bring it to a simmer. Place the covered dish on a trivet or stand inside the steamer. Close the lid. Steam on medium heat for about 25–30 minutes. Avoid high heat, as vigorous boiling can cause water to splash into the pudding. After about 25 minutes, carefully open and insert a toothpick or knife into the center of the pudding; if it comes out clean, the kharwas is set. If not, steam for another 5–10 minutes and check again.
5. Cool and Set: Once the pudding is cooked and has a slight jiggle but is firm to touch, turn off the heat. Remove the dish from the steamer using tongs (be careful, it’s hot). Let it cool to room temperature. As it cools, the pudding will firm up further. For the best texture, once cooled, refrigerate the kharwas for at least 2 hours (cover it while refrigerating). Chilling helps it set into a nice sliceable custard.
6. Serve: When fully set and chilled, run a knife around the edges of the pudding to loosen it. Invert it onto a plate (or you can even serve directly from the bowl). Cut the kharwas into squares or wedges. Serve chilled for the classic feel – the cool, silky texture is unbelievably comforting. You can also enjoy it slightly warm if you prefer, but traditionally it’s served cold, often as a treat after meals.
Tips
Colostrum Milk: Colostrum is the nutrient-rich first milk produced by a cow or buffalo after giving birth. If you are lucky enough to have first-day colostrum (which is very thick), dilute it with some normal milk (even up to a 1:6 ratio of colostrum to milk) so that the pudding sets with a tender texture. Colostrum from the second or third day is thinner; you can often use it without dilution.
Sweetener Choices: Authentic kharwas is made with jaggery, which lends a gentle caramel flavor and a light beige hue to the pudding. If you don’t have jaggery, you can use sugar or sweetened condensed milk, but jaggery truly gives that rustic, traditional taste. (Using jaggery also makes the pudding a tad healthier and more earthy in flavor.) Remember to dissolve and strain jaggery if it’s impure.
Steaming Tips: Always cover the container of the milk mixture before steaming to avoid water droplets entering. Steam on medium heat; a high rolling boil can cause water to seep in or the milk to overflow. If using a pressure cooker, do not put the weight/whistle on – just steam it like you would idlis. Typically, 25–30 minutes of steaming is sufficient for a medium bowl; a larger quantity might take a bit longer.
No Colostrum? Instant Kharwas: Can’t find colostrum milk? You can still enjoy a similar pudding. Mix 1 cup full-fat milk, 1 cup thick yogurt (curd), 1/2–1 cup sweetened condensed milk, and 2 teaspoons of custard powder (or corn flour). Whisk until smooth (no lumps) and steam this mixture just like above. This yields a soft, blancmange-like milk pudding that’s remarkably close to true kharwas. It’s an ingenious substitute for those of us who crave kharwas without access to colostrum.
Flavor Variations: Traditional kharwas is often simply flavored with cardamom (and occasionally a touch of nutmeg). For a Goan twist, some people place a piece of turmeric leaf while steaming or add a pinch of turmeric for a lovely aroma and yellow tint – this is called “posu” in Konkani. You can also infuse a few strands of saffron in warm milk and add to the mix for a richer fragrance. Garnishing the finished pudding with chopped pistachios or almonds can add a pleasant crunch to the silky pudding, though purists usually enjoy it plain.
Every time I make kharwas, I’m transported back to that early morning in my Aaji’s kitchen – the softness of her cotton sari against my cheek as we peered into the steamer, the dew on the air, and the irresistible scent of sweet milk filling the courtyard. In a world where desserts often come from bakeries or boxes, this humble, home-steamed pudding feels like a hug from the past. It’s amazing how one simple dessert can hold a lifetime of memories and tradition. I hope this recipe brings a bit of that farmhouse warmth into your home. Serve it to your loved ones and share the story – because kharwas isn’t just about indulging a sweet tooth, it’s about savoring a piece of our heritage with each creamy, cardamom-kissed bite. Happy cooking! ❤️
The Pinch of Masala 