Introduction
As the first rains of monsoon arrive, local markets in parts of India (especially Odisha and North India) overflow with fresh kankada – the spiny green gourds that herald the season. This seasonal vegetable (Momordica dioica) is eagerly awaited because it’s not only tasty but also packed with nutrients. In fact, there’s wisdom in eating seasonal produce: spiny gourd is said to have unique nutritional value that helps ward off seasonal illnesses during the rainy season. My family always believed that these little gourds help keep us healthy when monsoon colds and coughs are common.
Kankada – also known as kantola or kakrol in other parts of India – has a unique flavor profile. It’s mildly bitter (nowhere near as bitter as karela, the bitter melon) and takes on a soft, almost meaty texture when cooked. I remember how my mother would turn these spiky little veggies into a delicious curry, simmering them gently in an onion-tomato gravy. The slight bitterness would mellow into a rich, savory taste, making this curry a beloved comfort food at home. Spiny gourd is used in regional cuisines across India, and this curry version is inspired by the Odia/North Indian style of preparation – simple, homely, and letting the vegetable shine.
A warm bowl of Kankada Curry (spiny gourd curry) in onion-tomato gravy, garnished with fresh coriander. This curry showcases tender spiny gourd pieces coated in a lightly spiced masala. The vibrant color comes from ripe tomatoes and turmeric in the gravy, making it as appealing to the eyes as it is to the palate. It’s a true monsoon delight that brings both comfort and nutrition to the table.
Ingredients
(Serves 4)
Spiny gourd (Kankada/Kantola) – 250 grams (about 10 small spiny gourds)
Onion – 1 medium, finely chopped
Tomatoes – 2 medium, finely chopped (or pureed)
Ginger – 1-inch piece, grated or minced
Garlic – 4 cloves, minced
Green chili – 1, slit lengthwise (optional, for extra heat)
Turmeric powder – 1/2 teaspoon
Red chili powder – 1/2 teaspoon (adjust to taste)
Coriander powder – 1 teaspoon
Cumin seeds – 1 teaspoon
Garam masala – 1/2 teaspoon (add at the end for aroma)
Salt – 3/4 teaspoon, or to taste (plus a pinch for pre-frying)
Oil – 3 tablespoons (traditional Odia/North Indian recipes often use mustard oil for extra flavor, but any vegetable oil works)
Water – approx. 1 cup (as needed for the gravy)
Fresh coriander leaves – 2 tablespoons, chopped (for garnish)
Optional: 1 medium potato, peeled and cubed (if you want to add some potato to the curry for extra body; fry it along with the spiny gourds in step 1).
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Prep the Spiny Gourds: Wash the kankada (spiny gourds) thoroughly and pat them dry. Trim off the stem ends. Cut each spiny gourd into pieces – you can halve or quarter them if they are small, or slice into thick rounds/wedges. (If the seeds inside are very hard, scrape those out and discard; tender seeds can remain.)
2. Shallow-Fry the Gourd (and Potato): Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a kadai or deep pan on medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the cut spiny gourd pieces (and potato cubes, if using). Sprinkle a pinch of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of turmeric over them. Sauté or shallow-fry for about 5–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gourds get lightly browned and are half-cooked. This initial fry with salt and turmeric enhances the flavor and reduces the gourd’s slight bitterness. Remove the partially cooked spiny gourd (and potatoes) from the pan and set aside.
3. Prepare the Masala Base: In the same pan, there should be a little oil left; if not, add another 1 tablespoon of oil. Heat it on medium. Add the cumin seeds and let them splutter for a few seconds. (If using mustard oil instead of regular oil, heat it until it just starts to smoke before adding the seeds, to reduce its pungency.) Once the cumin is fragrant, add the chopped onions. Sauté the onions for about 4-5 minutes, stirring, until they turn golden-brown and softened.
4. Add Ginger, Garlic, and Chili: Add the minced ginger and garlic (and the slit green chili, if using) to the sautéed onions. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring continuously, until the raw smell of garlic disappears. Be careful not to burn the garlic.
5. Cook the Tomatoes: Stir in the chopped tomatoes. Add a pinch of salt (this helps the tomatoes cook down faster). Cook the onion-tomato mixture for about 5-7 minutes, mashing the tomatoes with the spoon, until the tomatoes turn soft and pulpy and the oil starts to release from the masala. You want this base to be a fairly smooth gravy. (If you prefer an extra-smooth gravy, you can cool this onion-tomato mixture and blend it to a paste, then return it to the pan – but this step is optional.)
6. Add the Spice Powders: Once the tomatoes are cooked down, lower the heat and add the dry spices – turmeric powder (if any remains from frying step), red chili powder, and coriander powder. Stir well and sauté the spices with the onion-tomato masala for another 1 minute. This toasts the spices and brings out their flavors. If the masala is very dry and sticking, sprinkle a few drops of water to prevent burning.
7. Combine Gourd with Masala: Add the partially fried spiny gourd pieces (and potato) into the pan. Stir to coat the pieces in the masala. Sauté together for 2-3 minutes so that the gourds absorb the flavors of the spices.
8. Add Water and Simmer: Pour in about 1 cup of water (enough to submerge the gourd pieces about 3/4 of the way). Stir and bring the curry to a gentle boil. Then reduce the heat to low, cover the pan with a lid, and let it simmer. Cook for about 8-10 minutes, or until the spiny gourds become tender but not mushy. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. (If you cover the pan, check and stir every few minutes so nothing burns on the bottom.) The gourds should be soft enough to pierce with a fork, and the gravy will have slightly thickened.
9. Finish with Garam Masala: Once the vegetables are cooked through and the curry has reached your desired consistency (you can add a bit more water if you want more gravy, or simmer uncovered for a few extra minutes to thicken it), turn off the heat. Sprinkle the garam masala powder and half of the fresh coriander leaves into the curry and stir. Cover and let it rest for 2 minutes so the garam masala aroma infuses the dish.
10. Garnish and Serve: Transfer the Kankada Curry to a serving bowl. Garnish with the remaining chopped coriander leaves. Serve it hot. (See Serving Suggestions below for ideas on what to pair this curry with.)
Tips for Selecting and Prepping Spiny Gourd (Kankada)
Choosing the Right Gourds: Pick fresh, firm, bright green spiny gourds when they’re in season (rainy months). Smaller, locally grown gourds are often more flavorful and less mature – in fact, the small local variety of spiny gourd has a far better taste than the bigger, commercial variety. Avoid any that have yellow or orange patches or feel soft, as those may be overripe or starting to spoil.
No Need to Peel: Despite their prickly appearance, the “spines” on these gourds are actually quite soft. You do not need to peel or scrape off the skin. Simply scrub the spiny gourds gently and rinse well under water to remove any dirt. The skin is edible and becomes tender upon cooking.
Cutting and Seeding: Use a sharp knife to trim the tip and stem ends. Cut the gourd into uniform pieces so they cook evenly – you can slice them into rounds or wedge them into halves/quarters depending on size. Check the seeds: if you find large, hard seeds, it’s best to scoop those out and discard them, as they can be tough to eat. If the seeds are small and tender, you can leave them in – they are absolutely fine to eat once cooked.
Reducing Bitterness: Spiny gourd has only a mild bitterness, but if you are sensitive to it, there are a couple of traditional tricks. One method is to sprinkle the raw cut pieces with a little salt and let them sit for 10-15 minutes; the salt will draw out some bitterness and moisture. Rinse and pat dry before cooking. Another method is exactly what we do in this recipe – shallow-fry the pieces with a bit of salt and turmeric initially. This not only reduces any bitterness but also gives the gourds a nice flavor boost. Either way, you’ll be rewarded with a pleasantly flavored curry.
Using Mustard Oil (Optional): In Eastern India (including Odia cuisine), mustard oil is often the cooking medium for vegetables like kankada. If you choose to use mustard oil for an authentic touch, remember to heat it until it just begins to smoke before adding your spices or veggies. This step removes the raw pungency of mustard oil and brings out its nutty aroma. Always reduce the heat before adding ingredients after smoking the oil, to avoid burning them.
Enriching the Gravy: This curry is delicious as is, but if you want to make the gravy richer, you can take inspiration from some regional cooks who add nuts or seeds. For example, grinding a tablespoon of pumpkin seeds or cashews into the onion-tomato masala can thicken the gravy and add nutrients. One recipe even notes that adding pumpkin seeds makes the curry more nutritious and adds healthy omega-3 fats. This is optional, but a nice twist if you want a creamier consistency.
Serving Suggestions
With Rice: Kankada Curry is often enjoyed with plain steamed rice. In Odisha, a serving of hot rice topped with this spiny gourd curry is a comforting meal. You can also serve it alongside dal (lentil soup) and rice as part of a traditional lunch. The mild bitterness of the gourd curry pairs well with the neutral taste of rice and dal, creating a balanced, homely platter.
With Indian Breads: This curry also goes wonderfully with Indian flatbreads. Serve it with soft rotis or chapatis, or even with parathas. The onion-tomato gravy is perfect for scooping up with bread. For a North Indian style meal, you can pair the spiny gourd curry with roti and perhaps a side of yogurt.
Complete the Meal: To elevate the meal, add a side of raita (a yogurt-based side dish) – for example, a cucumber or mint raita will cool the palate and complement the spices of the curry. A small salad or a few slices of onion and a wedge of lemon can be served for freshness. You might also include a crispy papad and a tangy pickle on the side for extra crunch and zing. These little additions turn the meal into a satisfying Indian thali experience.
Enjoy Seasonal Goodness: This curry is a star of monsoon season, so enjoy it when you can find fresh spiny gourds. It makes for a wholesome vegetarian main course. During cooler rainy evenings, you could even serve it with a comforting bowl of khichdi (rice-lentil porridge) – the smooth khichdi and spiced gourd curry make a nourishing combination. And if you’re in the mood, a glass of chilled buttermilk (chaas) on the side would be the perfect traditional beverage to wash it down.
With its warm, lightly spiced gravy and the unique flavor of seasonal spiny gourd, Kankada Curry is a dish that brings together health and taste. Enjoy this regional Indian delicacy with your family, and savor the taste of the monsoon on your plate! Happy cooking! 😋
The Pinch of Masala 