Tag: besara

In Odisha’s kitchens, the pungency of sorisa (mustard) paste is a staple of the cuisine and soul food.  Besara (literally “mustard-bathed”) is a classic Odia curry style built around a ground mustard sauce.  In my home state, Chhatu Besara – mushrooms (“chhatu” in Odia) cooked in mustard gravy – is a beloved monsoon comfort. Fresh wild mushrooms from the forests are gently simmered with potato (for heft and sweetness) in a minimal spice blend of garlic, turmeric and green chilies, all brought together by a hot mustard paste. Odisha’s cooks revere this sorisa-bata (mustard paste) – it is the cornerstone of many dishes. As one Odia food writer notes, these forests yield the wild mushrooms known as chhatu, “cooked alongside potatoes and simmered in a thick mustard paste infused with garlic and turmeric”, making a “pungent, creamy and aromatic” curry that evokes Odisha’s jungle and temple heritage.

In fact, mustard is woven through Odisha’s food culture.  Every summer and monsoon, long before the rains arrive, tiny wild mushrooms start sprouting in the damp fields and forests.  The humid, moderate monsoon climate is perfect for these fungi, and Odias celebrate the season with Chhatu Besara and other sorisa-rich dishes.  This curry is so traditional that the mixed vegetable Besar (Odia spelling) cooked in sorisa-bata is one of the 56 bhoga offerings (Mahaprasad) to Lord Jagannath at the Puri Temple. Even if you’re cooking at home, spooning hot rice over a bowl of mustardy mushrooms can feel like a devotional ritual – each bite connecting us to the earth and our ancestors’ kitchens.

Throughout the recipe, be prepared to work with a sharp mustard sauce (Odia curries often skip many spices). As Sasmita Sahoo notes in her Odia food blog, the mustard paste is traditionally ground on a silbata with garlic, chilies and cumin, but nowadays a blender works just fine.  Do use mustard oil if you can – it lends that classic Odia aroma and fragrance that no other oil can match. (If needed, you can substitute a mild oil, but it won’t be as authentic.)  With just a handful of ingredients, this dish comes together quickly – it’s a “specialty of Odisha” that uses minimal spices to create deep flavor.

Ingredients

Mushrooms (Chhatu) – 400 g (about 14 oz) fresh button or oyster mushrooms, cleaned and halved.

Potato – 1 medium, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (optional, for a heartier curry).

Raw banana (kacha kela) – 1 small (around 100 g), peeled and cut into chunks (optional variation).

Mustard paste: 2 tbsp mustard seeds (sorisa), 1 tsp cumin seeds, 4–5 cloves garlic, 2–3 dried red chilies – ground together with very little water.

Turmeric powder – ½ teaspoon.

Salt – to taste (about ½ to 1 tsp).

Green chilies – 2 fresh, slit (adjust to taste).

Tomato – 1 small, chopped (adds tang; optional).

Onion – 1 small, chopped (optional; traditional temple-style besara omits onion).

Mustard oil – 3 tablespoons (or neutral oil if unavailable, though mustard oil is traditional).

Water – ¼ to ½ cup (as needed for gravy).

Garnish: Fresh cilantro (coriander leaves), chopped.


Method

1. Prepare the Mustard Paste:  In a small bowl or mortar, soak 2 tablespoons mustard seeds with the cumin seeds, garlic cloves, and dried red chilies in a splash of warm water for 10–15 minutes. Then grind them to a coarse paste with as little water as possible (this keeps the paste thick). Alternatively, use a spice grinder or blender. The goal is a very pungent, thick mustard-garlic paste – this is the flavor base of the curry.


2. Prep Vegetables: Clean and halve the mushrooms. Keep them whole or large, as they will shrink when cooked. If using potato and/or raw banana, peel and cut them into bite-sized pieces and set them in water to prevent browning. Chop the onion and tomato if using.


3. Heat Mustard Oil: In a deep pan or kadhai, add 3 tablespoons mustard oil and heat on medium. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add a pinch of fenugreek seeds (optional) and let it crackle. Lower the flame and add the chopped onion and green chilies. Sauté until the onion is translucent and slightly golden. (Tip: For an extra Odia touch, you can add a pinch of panch phoron (five-spice mix) with the oil – cumin, fennel, mustard, nigella, fenugreek – but this curry tastes great with just mustard and cumin alone.)


4. Cook Potatoes/Banana: Add the drained potato and raw banana pieces. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and turmeric. Sauté on medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the edges begin to brown. This browning adds a nice sweet caramelized flavor to the vegetables. Remove and set aside for a moment.


5. Sauté Mushrooms: In the same pan, add the mushrooms. You may add a bit more oil if the pan is dry. Sauté the mushrooms on high heat until they start to release moisture and then that water evaporates. This helps concentrate their flavor. Stir frequently so they brown slightly on the edges.


6. Spice it Up: Return the browned potatoes/banana to the pan. Add the chopped tomato (if using), remaining turmeric, red chili powder, and salt. Mix well and cook for another 2–3 minutes until the tomatoes soften.


7. Add Mustard Paste: Now, stir in the prepared mustard paste. Mix quickly so it coats all the veggies. You should smell a very strong, sharp aroma now – that’s the sorisa getting awakened. Cook the paste for 1–2 minutes on low heat, being careful not to let it burn.


8. Simmer: Pour in about ¼ to ½ cup water (depending on how thick you like the gravy) and stir everything together. Cover the pan and simmer for 5–7 minutes on low heat, or until the potatoes (and banana, if used) are tender. The sauce will thicken slightly as it cooks. Check seasoning and add more salt if needed.


9. Finishing Touch: For tang and authenticity, add a souring agent now. If you have ambula (sun-dried green mango slices), soak 1–2 pieces in 2 tablespoons warm water and stir them into the gravy. (The ambula will infuse a subtle sour note.) If you don’t have ambula, a splash of tamarind water or even a squeeze of lemon can brighten the curry. Cook another minute, then turn off the heat. Finally, drizzle a teaspoon of raw mustard oil on top, and garnish with chopped cilantro.


10. Serve Hot: Transfer the Chhatu Besara to a serving bowl. Enjoy it piping hot as part of a rustic Odia meal.



Tips & Variations

Mustard Paste: Always grind the mustard seeds with minimal water. A bit of soaking makes grinding easier, but the paste should be very thick and pungent (it will mellow when cooked). For safety, taste a dab of raw mustard paste mixed with a drop of oil first – it will be VERY hot!

Make it Traditional: In temple-style Odia besara, no onion or garlic are used – only sorisa with spices like cumin, pepper and ginger, plus coconut or jaggery for balance. Our home version uses garlic and onion for extra body, but you can skip them if desired.

Souring Agents: Dried mango (ambula) is prized in Odisha for its unique tang. If unavailable, use tamarind, raw mango, or even yogurt at the end. Tomatoes alone will add some tartness too.

Veggie Variations: This curry is very forgiving – you can add other veggies like potatoes, jackfruit seed, or even bottle gourd in place of (or along with) mushrooms. Kacha Kela (raw green banana) and aloo (potato) are very common. Make “Aloo Besara” or “Kela Besara” by using them as the main stars, with the same mustard base.

Use Fresh Ingredients: In Odisha, Chhatu Besara is simplest when made with just-grown mushrooms and home-pressed mustard oil. The aroma of fresh mustard oil is key. If you don’t have it, heat vegetable oil until very hot and let it cool slightly before adding to mimic the sharp flavor.

Quick Prep: You can prepare the mustard paste ahead of time and refrigerate it (it stays pungent in an airtight jar). On cooking day, stir-fry the veggies and simply add the paste from the fridge.


Serving & Seasonal Context

Chhatu Besara is most often enjoyed with steaming rice (basmati or short-grain) and a simple dal. In Odisha, it would join other dishes like dalma (lentils with veggies), plain yogurt or raita, and a vegetable bhaja or bharta. It also pairs beautifully with soft flatbreads (roti or paratha), which soak up the mustard gravy. A bowl of hot pakhala (fermented rice water) on the side can cool the palate if the curry is extra fiery. Pickles and papad (crispy lentils wafers) add nice contrasts.

Because mushrooms flourish in the rains, Chhatu Besara is often celebrated as a monsoon specialty. In Odisha’s villages, mothers and grandmothers eagerly collect fresh chhatu after the first rains, then prepare this dish with devotion. Each spoonful is earthy and nourishing, a reminder of the seasons and the land. Whether you’re serving it at a family dinner or as a festive ritual offering, this humble curry carries with it the soul of Odisha – simple, rustic, and deeply rooted in devotion to the earth’s bounty.

Enjoy this soulful Odia classic with the warmth of home and the devotion of tradition.